Cut in Italy, from cloth woven in England. It is less of a contradiction than it sounds.
A shop called London House
Gennaro Rubinacci opened his tailoring house on Via Filangieri and named it after the city that set men's elegance.
English cloth, Naples clients
British mills made the best wool. Vittorio De Sica was among the early clients. The house became Rubinacci in 1963 and kept the old initials.
The shirt shoulder
Out came the padding and the stiff chest. The sleeve was sewn on like a shirt sleeve: spalla camicia. Serious jacket, sweater feeling.
Roomy, open, over denim
A man's tweed or herringbone, a little big. Worn open over a plain ivory knit and dark full-length jeans.
Cross your arms
If a wool jacket lets you reach for your bag without the shoulders lifting, it already has a little Naples in it.